Research Ruffs and Jewelry

A very brief background on ruffs because when I think lace I  think ruffs.

Ruffs edged with lace became popular in the early half of the 16th century. During Elizabeth 1st reign courtly dress became more extravagant -- Ruffs evolved from the collars of the shirts worn by men which they turned down to cover the collar of their doublet, called a falling band. The collars would have a small decorative ruffle around the top- would have add a bit of visual interest but gradually over the century this became wider and spread over the shoulders and eventually become a separate item, that attached under the chin. 

During the 1580s the size of ruffs increases enormously, known a cartwheel ruffs as they enclosed the neck all round. They were trimmed with lace and heated setting pokers were used to keep the layers of starched frills in place, for the truly large ruffs a wire frame called an underpropper was used to support the ruff. 

an example of a gold wire underpropper can be seen under the lace ruff

 

underpropper of wire, bobbin lace, silk and metallic thread. French, Muse national de la Renaissance-Chateau d’Écouen, Paris.

When I was looking through the library to research this I found a book on contemporary jewelry and costume jewelry- thought it fit the theme as it was around this time period that excess and body adornment became popular, thanks to the influence of Elizabeth the 1st.

Faux pearls were very interesting to read about 

 

In Ancient Rome glass beads were coated with silver and then coated with glass - to replicate the shine of pearls. Small balls of clay coated with mica powder and then baked, were another early attempt to create the appearance of natural pearls. 

 In the 17th century a rosary maker called Jacquin on the outskirts of Paris specialized a method of making fake pearls, from hollow blown glass spheres that were coated on the inside with ground fish scales and injected with wax for the weight.